Retinol to the Rescue!

Learn how retinol (Vitamin A) can really help your skin look and act younger!

Vitamin A, also called retinol, is a skin care ingredient to know. Unlike so many exotic sounding skin care ingredients, retinol's reputation is deserved. Research clearly shows that retinol in most of its forms is an effective cell-communicating ingredient (meaning it can tell skin cells to behave like healthy, younger skin cells), as well as an antioxidant that can interrupt free radical damage from such sources as sunlight and pollution.

A Retinol by Any Other Name…
The entire vitamin A molecule can be broken down into many smaller, more potent components, generally called retinoids—so the names that are somewhat interchangeable are vitamin A, retinol, and retinoids. Prescription retinoids contain retinoic acid (or tretinoin), the active ingredient in such medications as Renova and Retin-A. In contrast, retinol (which is the entire vitamin A molecule) is a cosmetic ingredient that any cosmetics company can utilize, and so it is widely available without a prescription. However, unlike tretinoin, retinol itself cannot benefit skin until it has been absorbed and broken down into retinoic acid. In order to do this, the retinol has to be both stable and able to penetrate skin—no small feat. Fortunately, there are many stable forms of retinol with plenty of impressive research regarding their efficacy. In addition to retinol, other effective forms include retinyl acetate, retinyl palmitate, retinylaldehyde, and many others. Yes, retinol's endless aliases are confusing, but here's what you need to know: all forms have similar functions and provide truly impressive benefits for skin, which explains their popularity in the world of skin care.

Does Retinol Do it All?
No single ingredient can take care of skin's complex needs on its own, and retinol, in any form, is no exception. Using retinol will not replace the need for a well-formulated sunscreen, alpha hydroxy acid or beta hydroxy acid product for exfoliation, gentle cleanser, and a serum or moisturizer loaded with antioxidants, other cell-communicating ingredients, and skin-identical substances. In short, vitamin A should not be the only ingredient you look for in an antiaging skin care product; it's just one of many. Keeping skin healthy and young requires a combination of ingredients and products that work together to give your skin exactly what it needs. (For more details, see The 5 Things Your Anti-Wrinkle Product Must Contain). Together, all these various ingredients and product types combine to create a powerful skin-care routine.

The Retinol Rundown:
Here's what you need to know before shopping for a skin-care product with retinol:

• Only consider products in airtight, opaque packaging (no jars!) because all forms of vitamin A break down and deteriorate when repeatedly exposed to air or light.
• Retinol is known to cause irritation such as redness and flaking, especially for those new to using it, but symptoms should subside within a few days as your skin adjusts to regular use. If not, then you should stop using it. Not everyone can use vitamin A-based products.
• If you're new to using retinol, always start by using it every other day or mix it with your usual moisturizer first so that your skin can acclimate to it.
• Using well-formulated moisturizers or serums and using a gentle cleanser and toner will help your skin better tolerate retinol.
• Avoid cleansers or scrubs that contain retinol; the benefit would just be rinsed down the drain.
• Research shows that using a retinol product in conjunction with an AHA exfoliant significantly improves its effects for treating sun damaged skin.
• Exposure to sunlight can make retinol unstable, so it's best used at night or underneath a well-formulated sunscreen or foundation with sunscreen.
• Look for vitamin A listed as retinol, retinyl acetate, retinyl palmitate, retinylaldehyde, and other forms with similar names.

Are You Ready for Retinol?
If you're ready to discover retinol for yourself, consider trying Paula's Choice Resist Barrier Repair Moisturizer, a superior introductory product for first-time retinol users. It's a lightweight, daily moisturizer packaged in an airtight, opaque pump, which includes a variety of cell-communicating and antioxidant ingredients—exactly what you should look for in a well-formulated skin-care product designed to reduce signs of aging! For other well-formulated options check out Paula's Choice products, as well as other recommendations from Paula and her Cosmetics Cop Team on Beautypedia.com.

(Sources: The Journal of Dermatological Treatment, May 2009, pages 276-281; Journal of the Indian Medical Association, April 2009, pages 219-222; American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, June 2008, pages 369-381; International Journal of Cosmetic Science, June 2008, pages 175-182; Journal of Dermatological Science, May 2008, pages 99-107; Archives of Dermatology, May 2007, pages 606-612; and Clinical Interventions in Aging, April 2006, pages 327-348.)

Courtesy of: Paula Begoun

Summer Skin Savers

After counting down the days until summer, the warm weather is finally here! But it’s hard to enjoy the season’s skimpier fashions if your skin isn’t up to par. Ingrown hairs, body acne, and sunburn can take the fun out of the season. Get ready for the shortest shorts and the tiniest tanks with this guide to summer skin care.

Body Acne
Acne can make even the most confident people feel self-conscious—especially when it occurs on the body. "Backne" (acne on the back) is common among men and women, but you can get pimples almost anywhere on the body if your pores become clogged and infected.

* What causes it? Hot, humid weather often prompts the production of excess oil, resulting in acne on the back and chest, which can take longer to heal than facial pimples.
* What prevents it? Wear loose clothing made with moisture-wicking fabric to help release trapped moisture before it can contribute to the problem. Sweating in the summer sun can clog pores faster than you're able to get to the shower, so clean up as soon as you're done exercising and spending time in the heat.
* What eliminates it? Treat body acne with a medicated body wash containing salicylic or glycolic acid to help unplug pores. Consider applying a light layer of tea tree oil directly onto the acne for a naturally-antibacterial treatment.

Dry Skin
Summer fashions for men and women expose more skin than during the cooler months. So make sure your skin looks healthy, not dry and flaky.

* What causes it? Sun exposure, tanning, dehydration and repeated dips in the pool can leave your skin dry and flaky.
* What prevents it? Exfoliating and moisturizing regularly can help keep skin in tip-top condition. Be careful when selecting an exfoliating product—it's easy to go overboard and treat the skin too roughly.
* What eliminates it? Combat the flakes with physical or chemical exfoliation once or twice a week. Physical exfoliants include facial scrubs and buffer pads. Stay away from products containing ground up nut shells, which can damage skin with their jagged edges. Instead try a product with exfoliating beads, which are round and much gentler. Chemical exfoliation uses alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acids to loosen and remove dead skin cells. After exfoliating, always apply a moisturizer that won’t clog pores or cause breakouts. Gel formulas are especially light and refreshing for the summer—store them in the refrigerator for a cool burst every time you use them.

Ingrown Hairs
Many women need to clean up their bikini line before hitting the beach, but nothing spoils the look like red, irritated skin. Ingrown hairs, or razor bumps, occur when the shaved or waxed hair gets trapped inside the hair follicle and grows back down into the skin.

* What causes it? Ingrown hairs commonly result when skin is shaved too closely.
* What prevents it? To avoid this, don’t pull the skin too taut when your shave; shave in the direction of your hair growth; and apply light (not heavy) pressure on the blades. If you are prone to ingrown hairs, visit your dermatologist for advice and ask about options for permanent removal options, such as laser hair removal.
* What eliminates it? If you already have ingrown hairs, use a product containing salicylic acid or glycolic acid to exfoliate the upper layers of dead skin around the trapped hair. Then, use tweezers to gently lift the hair out of the follicle without removing it completely. Dab a cream with lactic acid directly onto the razor bumps to help soften the skin so the hair can emerge.

Poison Ivy
Summer means spending more time outdoors, but practice caution while hiking and camping. Poison ivy is found throughout the United States and Canada, and nothing will ruin a vacation faster than an itchy, uncomfortable rash.

* What causes it? Contact with poison ivy can result in a rash. Even if it doesn't directly touch your skin, you can still pick it up from petting your dog or touching clothing that was exposed to the plant.
* What prevents it? The best way to prevent poison ivy rash is to avoid the plant altogether. Familiarize yourself with what it looks like (its three leaves are a good giveaway), and try to cover up your skin when in wooded areas where the plant thrives. If you’ve been exposed to this three-leafed plant, immediately wash everything that may have come in contact with it. The oil can remain active for quite some time on fabric and other objects.
* What eliminates it? Apply a cool, wet compress to relieve the itching. Add ground oatmeal or baking soda to your bathwater to ease the discomfort, or make a paste with either of these ingredients (mixed with a small amount of water) and apply it directly to the rash. Leave the rash open to the air to help it heal. Consider using a lotion with ingredients that dry up blisters and speed healing, such as calamine, alcohol, and zinc acetate. Don’t break the blisters as this may cause infection. If you are extremely uncomfortable, talk to your doctor about taking an oral antihistamine to relieve the itch but avoid the topical variety—they are not as effective and may cause a rash of their own.

Sunburn
If too much sun has left your skin blistered and considerably painful, seek medical attention. If the sunburn is accompanied by fever, dehydration and nausea, you could have sun poisoning.

* What causes it? Whether tanning under the sun or the glow of a tanning bed, excessive exposure to the sun or ultraviolet light can cause sunburn. The skin "burns" because your body isn't able to make enough melanin to protect the skin.
* What prevents it? Health experts advise against indoor tanning entirely. But when spending time outdoors, apply sunscreen regularly, wear sunglasses and a wide-brimmed hat, and limit your skin exposure to prevent sunburn from occurring.
* What eliminates it? If your symptoms aren’t severe, you can treat the burn yourself with cold compresses, which help reduce the skin’s surface temperature. Apply a layer of pure aloe gel, calamine lotion (if the burn is itchy) and a gentle, non-scented lotion (to help prevent peeling). Be careful not to scratch the itchy areas as this may cause infection. Drink plenty of fluids, but avoid alcohol, which can dehydrate the skin even more. If the pain is severe, ask your doctor about aspirin (not for use in children under 12), ibuprofen or another over-the-counter pain medication.

By following these tips, you'll be ready to show some skin, all summer long!

Courtesy of: SparkPeople.com

Some Facts about Indoor Tanning:

* Ultraviolet radiation (UVR) is a proven human carcinogen, according to the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services.
* Frequent tanners using new high-pressure sunlamps may receive as much as 12 times the annual UVA dose compared to the dose they receive from sun exposure.
* Nearly 30 million people tan indoors in the U.S. every year.
* On an average day, more than one million Americans use tanning salons.
* Seventy one percent of tanning salon patrons are girls and women aged 16-29.
* First exposure to tanning beds in youth increases melanoma risk by 75 percent.
* People who use tanning beds are 2.5 times more likely to develop squamous cell carcinoma and 1.5 times more likely to develop basal cell carcinoma.
* The indoor tanning industry has an annual estimated revenue of $5 billion.

Shocking News from Aveeno, Neutrogena, and RoC

Electrifying Skin Care
A few skin care companies have a new tactic to persuade you to part with your money. They're calling it revolutionary, but we're calling it “shock and awe.” Claiming to tap into the skin's natural electric currents, these products are said to generate current that communicates with cells to tell them to make more collagen and elastin. The brands advertising this new gimmick the most are Aveeno, Neutrogena, and Roc, all owned by the skin-care giant Johnson & Johnson. Lining drugstore shelves are slickly-packaged kits that promise to define, tone, and smooth skin in as few as three days.

Batteries Included
Among the sets you'll see at the drugstore are Aveeno Ageless Vitality, Neutrogena Clinical, and Roc Brilliance. All three have a two-part system: a serum containing “essential ion-mineral conductors” in the form of micronized zinc coated with copper accompanied by either a moisturizer, sunscreen, or eye cream that J&J says activates the minerals while also providing skin-firming benefits.

How are these duos supposed to work? Simply put, once the minerals in the serum combine with water in the moisturizer, the circuit is complete. When mixed with water, the copper in the product is supposed to create a weak but measureable electric current like old car batteries. With this teeny energy surge, skin is supposed to repair itself more efficiently. And because skin's electrical system decreases with age, this increased shock is meant to restore what is lost.

Shocking Claims
Touting different marketing terminology that sounds like it's straight out of a science-fiction movie, such as Cytomimic used by Aveeno, E-Pulse used by RoC, and Ion2Complex used by Neutrogena, the products all profess similar benefits: firmer skin (by increasing elastin), fewer age spots, more radiance, and a reduction in fine lines.

J&J even presented several posters at the annual American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) meeting, held in March 2010. The posters featured photographs and charts bragging about the impressive results. But before you buy into J&J's research that this micro-current technology is the biggest innovation since the light bulb (at least as far as skin is concerned), it's important to know that “posters” presented at dermatology conferences are not peer-reviewed or published. If anything, these types of posters are almost always allowed because they are paid for by the company selling a product or ingredients to be included. Think of them as the fashion magazine ads you see before getting to the factual, substantiated information these meetings strive to present.

The J&J posters (9 in all) on display explained the efficacy of the products by highlighting their studies which were done in vitro (meaning a test tube) as well as 4 user tests which included between 30–124 women who used the products for eight weeks. Eight weeks is a good start, but not long enough to clearly demonstrate results. And let's not forget: these types of studies are typical of hundreds of other unpublished studies cosmetic companies use to show stellar results for their products, including other products from J&J.

What about those impressive photos you're seeing in the ads for these products? They all feature the eye area—the part of the face that is the least apparent for sagging—yet the major claims for this new electric technology is the improvement of sagging. Plus, the eye area is the easiest to show impressive results in a photo by applying almost any moisturizer.

“The claims J&J makes are early ones,” says Boston dermatologist Ranella Hirsch, MD, who has consulted for companies including J&J, but has no involvement or interest in the new products, “but with studies that include a larger sample size over a longer period of time, this technology has some exciting potential.”

A Spark of Truth
The researchers and dermatologists we spoke to, none of whom are affiliated with J&J, used the word “potential” over and over. Interestingly, the dermatologists who have spoken up for this technology in fashion magazines are associated with J&J (so they have a vested interest in promoting this technology in line with J&J's claims). Still, it turns out there may be reason to buzz over bioelectricity in the skin.

As far back as the 1830s, a German physiologist observed that wounds generate an electric current. Researchers have since discovered that injured tissue generates electricity—a small fraction of a what a standard AA battery generates (Source: Nature, September 2006, pages 457-460). But what's new about J&J's approach is the idea that micro-currents can have a direct impact on aging skin. And that's where the concept goes a little haywire because no one quite understands how this really works. It's a leap to assume you can channel electrical energy so specifically in skin. What if you end up triggering the damaged cells you don't want to have reproduced? You could be super-charging your skin's bad behavior rather than improving matters.

There is research showing that bioelectricity in the skin is about half the levels in people ages 65-80 than those ages 18-29 (Source: 18th Annual Meeting of the Wound Healing Society, 2008). But what that has to do with wrinkles is anyone's guess because wounds are NOT wrinkles and wrinkles are NOT wounds.

A Bright Idea?
The idea of tapping the skin's micro-currents is actually an old one. La Mer and L'Oreal have attempted to tap into the skin's electric current with minerals in moisturizers and Estee Lauder has a micro-current skin patch for eyes. Whether or not these minerals can really do this at all or any better than J&J's versions are unknown.

J&J claims that bioelectricity is key to how cells communicate with each other, but that is at best a stretch as there are millions of “key” elements in cell communication. But the process that causes skin to look older or age has no research showing it has anything to do with bioelectricity helping to tell skin cells to behave better or younger. In contrast, there is a ton of research showing it has almost everything to do with sun damage (compare the parts of your body that are exposed to the sun the most—your hands, chest, arms, and face—with the parts that rarely see sunlight and you will see for yourself what sun exposure does to skin).

Science Fact or Fiction?
“This is an emerging science, so I don't believe anyone knows for certain yet how important bioelectricity is in skin aging,” says researcher and dermatologist David McDaniel, MD, director of the Institute of Anti-Aging Research in Virginia Beach, Virginia. “J&J has done some interesting research on bioelectricity as one ages, but it takes many years for the full impact of science like this to find its place,” he says. For example, McDaniel explains, it took decades for the full potential of retinoids and SPF to be recognized. Moreover, it took varying periods of time to disprove countless other so-called skin-care ingredients that were once hailed as revolutionary by the companies selling them.

With price tags ranging from $24.99 to $49.99, these products may be expensive experiments when other proven ingredients for skin would be a far better way to go. You have to ask yourself, do you really want your skin to be a guinea pig for a cosmetic company's “research”? And, as you will see from the reviews of these kits on Beautypedia, my team and I found formulary deficiencies that make those from RoC and Neutrogena fundamentally ineffective—at least if you're hoping J&J's electric-current-for-sagging claims come true.

Courtesy of: Paula Begoun

5 Ways to get Summer- ready Skin

1) Eat plenty of Wild Salmon. Studies have shown that the carotenoid astaxathin, present in Wild Salmon, provides powerful protection against damaging effects of the sun.

2) Take a Pycnogenol supplement. This supplement prevents sun damage and photo aging.

3) Drink Green Tea and take Green Tea Extracts. Green Tea has been proven to reduce damage caused by UV exposure.

4) Choose a moisturizer rich in corrective nutrients and formulated with a non-chemical SPF. Rain or shine, this will protect your skin from sun damage.

5) Don't forget to hydrate. Drink a minimum of 8-10 glasses of spring water per day to give your skin a radiant summer glow.